Winemaker Luke Steele took time out from vintage in Tasmania to urge the Australian wine industry to “look beyond the struggles of one region”.
As a proud South Australian by birth and education, I write to you with both nostalgia and urgency.
My roots in the state’s wine industry run deep, having studied viticulture and winemaking at the University of Adelaide with numerous academic accolades coming as a result of my studies.
However, my professional journey has largely unfolded beyond its borders, where I’ve honed my craft in regions that embrace innovation, quality and sustainability.
Most recently, I’ve been working tirelessly on the East Coast of Tasmania during the 2025 vintage, a move that was as unexpected and disruptive to my family life as it was invigorating professionally.
South Australia’s wine industry, once the shining beacon of Australian viticulture, now faces challenges that threaten its global reputation.
The oversupply of grapes and structural issues have created a malaise that is difficult to ignore.
While the region still boasts premium producers and iconic labels, the broader narrative has been overshadowed by stagnation and an inability to adapt swiftly to changing market demands.
This narrative does not reflect the fine wine industry of Australia as a whole.
Contrast this with Tasmania, a region that is buoyant, fresh and undeniably optimistic about its future.
Here on the island, I’ve been privileged to direct the production of sensational wines during a vintage marked by above-average yields and exceptional quality.
Tasmania is not just excelling, it is redefining what Australian fine wine can be.
Its sparkling wines have garnered international acclaim, its still wines are celebrated for their elegance and precision, and its producers are passionate about pushing boundaries.
Working here has reaffirmed my belief that regions like Tasmania represent the future of Australian winemaking, if they continue to prioritise quality over quantity and embrace their unique identity on the global stage.
As someone who has seen both sides of Australia’s wine story, from South Australia’s storied past to Tasmania’s vibrant present, I urge your readers to look beyond the struggles of one region.
The fine wine industry in Australia is alive and thriving in pockets where innovation meets tradition.
Tasmania is leading this charge with wines that are not just world class but also emblematic of what modern Australian winemaking can achieve.
I look forward to seeing WBM champion these narratives that celebrate excellence across all regions while addressing the challenges head-on.
Please feel free to reach out if you’d like further insights into my work or experiences during this transformative vintage in Tasmania.
Photo credit: Devil’s Corner.
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