Most vintages in Australia throw up numerous challenges for growers and 2024 was no different with a spray-fest and then a lack of rain being the hallmarks. It’s small – tiny in some regions – but the end product won’t disappoint, as this region-by-region Vintage Report reveals.

Adelaide Hills

Brian Croser – Tapanappa

We all know what comes in small packages, but can they be a little bigger than the 2024 vintage from our Tiers, Piccadilly Valley and Foggy Hill Fleurieu Peninsula vineyards? At the beginning of the growing season, we anticipated harvesting 30 tonnes of Chardonnay from the Tiers Vineyard. We picked 16 tonnes on 14 March. Similarly, we anticipated harvesting 30 tonnes of Pinot Noir from our Foggy Hill Vineyard. We picked 6 tonnes on 8 March. In 2024 we planned to make wine from 550 tonnes of grapes at the Tapanappa Winery in the Piccadilly Valley. We received 250 tonnes of grapes from the total 2024 harvest. Only the Whalebone Vineyard in Wrattonbully, three hours south of Piccadilly and the Fleurieu, yielded a close to average crop.

After a slightly early budburst in early September, vine growth was normal before flowering at the end of November. The winter rains had been slightly above average and the soils were nicely full of water to support early growth. Just as flowering started, the south-easterly winds began to blow persistently and with moderate strength. These cold winds were generated in the low latitudes of the Great Southern Ocean, bringing up cold air from the fringes of Antarctica to the top edge of expansive high-pressure systems, sweeping counterclockwise along the southern coastline of Australia. These high-pressure systems were centred on the latitude of Tasmania, reflecting a positive SAM (Southern Annular Modulation), and are usually further north in the spring.

SAM was positive because the enormous column of air spinning over the South Pole into the stratosphere (the Antarctic vortex) was very strong, sucking the high-pressure systems south. The cold, strong south-easterly winds whistling across the coastal vineyards had a dire effect on the flowering process of the vines from 21 November into mid-December. The flowering period that is normally over in a week to 10 days extended for three weeks in a process painful to watch. It also rained intermittently throughout flowering and the caps that should fall off the opening flowers instead stuck to the pollen-bearing flower anthers, limiting the amount of pollen to reach the stigma, the doorway to the ovary. For the pollen that made it that far, the pollen tube growth from the stigma to the ovary was very slow because of the low temperatures and the pollen simply ran out of fuel before reaching its destination, the ovule or egg. Without pollination the ovule did not turn into a seed and without seeds the berries don’t develop – either at all or into very small ‘chickens’ (seedless berries). The small percentage of fully pollinated flowers grew into normal berries with a complement of 1-4 seeds. They are the hens of the ‘hen and chicken’ syndrome more properly called millerandage. The unfertilised berries that simply fell off the bunch are the victims of coulure.

The frustrating aspect of poor flowering in 2024 is that the positive SAM has delivered a mild, even cool, growing season as it had for the previous four vintages starting with 2020. The quality of cool, dry vintages is high, creating intense but delicate grape flavours, bright colours for reds and lively natural acids to balance moderate alcohol levels. And indeed 2024 has been cool, at average degree-day summations up to the end of March. February and March have been completely devoid of rain, so, accelerated by the low crops and a warm March, harvest was completed in perfect autumn weather in mid-March exactly one month earlier than the very cool 2023 harvest.

The implications of a very small vintage are profound. The vineyard costs as much to run with a small, average or large crop. For Foggy Hill the cost/tonne of the 6 tonnes of Pinot Noir in 2024 will be five times that for a normal crop. For Tiers Vineyard the cost/tonne of the 16 tonnes of Chardonnay will be double that of a normal crop. In the winery the great majority of the costs remain the same, be it a small crop or big crop, so the processing costs per litre of wine made in 2024 vintage will be double a normal year. I do not wish to explore these depressing arithmetic facts any further. Far from being a whinge about the bad luck of a poor flowering season by a disgruntled vigneron, my explanations of the 2024 vintage are made in a spirit of resignation and acceptance of the endless array of the random behaviours of Mother Nature. She always surprises. My preoccupation now is on the outstanding quality of the 2024 vintage and protecting and enhancing that in the winery. 2024 vintage certainly comes in a small package but it will be worth seeking out.

Picking at Paulmara. Photo credit: Dragan Radocaj.

Barossa Valley

Louisa Rose – Yalumba

After a long and late 2023 vintage, 2024 vintage proved to be quite the opposite. Despite a reasonable break at the end of the 2023 harvest, the Barossa Valley did not receive the soaking winter rains growers had hoped for. Winter was 28 percent below average rains, with 115mm (recorded at Nuriootpa), and spring was even drier with only 56mm, 48 percent of average. Luckily there were some rains in December and January, as February had no rain recorded at all. Summer rainfall was 11 percent below average, and 326.6mm of rain fell in the 2023 calendar year, 74 percent of average.

The dry winter and spring made the vines work during the early part of the growing season, and budburst started in September, three weeks earlier than the year before. September was also 3.4C above average in maximum temperature, so the vines grew fast. With dry springs come clear and cold and frosty nights, and we had some of the coldest nights in recent years, particularly in September and October. Some vineyards had significant damage that influenced their subsequent yield.

Daytime temperatures in October and November were close to average, although windy weather and a heat spike in the middle of November did cause issues with some vineyards where this was coincident with flowering, and hence fruitset. With some rain, and slightly cooler than average days, December and early January saw vines flourish and move quickly into their ripening phase. There was some risk of disease, but diligence and cooler daytime temperatures minimised the effects. Veraison in many vineyards was a month earlier than 2023. January finished with average temperatures, but in February, with no rain and the temperature 2C above average, vines ripened quickly, and harvest was away. Whites ripened quickly, retaining good fragrance and natural acids early. Reds, with small berries, show intensity and vibrancy.

February and into March remained dry, with many vineyards having more than 40 days with no recorded rainfall. The early season was a blessing for many who had already picked before an unseasonal heatwave in early March. Most varieties and vineyards were picked before Easter (end of March) with only the later ripening varieties Grenache and Mataro being harvested into April. Quality across the board looks exceptional, although yields are variable. Depending on site and variety, crops are anywhere between 50 and 90 percent of normal. Particular standouts are Grenache and Cabernet, but that’s not to take away from some exceptional parcels of Riesling, Semillon and Shiraz.

The number of Barossa vineyards and wineries participating in Sustainable Winegrowing Australia has grown significantly to 176 members (up from 146 last year). The number of growers and winemakers who are certified members of SWA grew even more significantly, from 49 to 100. Certified growers and wineries are those who have reached a ‘best practice’ standard of sustainability markers. They have also passed an audit conducted by a third party under the Freshcare standard.

Indigo vineyard. Photo credit: Georgie James.

Beechworth

Amy Banks – Beechworth Wine Region

We had regular rain in the winter and spring (except September) and all the vines were looking in excellent health. Plenty of soil moisture has ensured shoots have filled the trellis, and some trimming for all vignerons was required. Despite all the wet weather, most managed to keep the two main diseases (powdery and downy mildew) out of the vineyards. The last few weeks (in February) the weather changed. With an absence of rain, and some warmer days, it’s allowed most Vignerons to begin harvest a little earlier than in 2023. Yields have been moderate to slightly below-average, as many had frost affect them in October. The fruit that has been picked is of exceptional quality – large, ripe bunches of all varieties. The Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Shiraz have all shown exceptional varietal expression. Ideal ripening conditions have made it incredibly pleasurable to see the big bunches (of all varieties) coming into the winery, ready to be processed. Nebbiolo is only just coming off vineyards, but it too is perfectly ripe, rich, structured and highly aromatic. Watch this space. Most are incredibly happy with the quality of the fruit coming in. A longer, slower ripening season (than in 2023), specifically in late January through February has allowed for exceptional fruit ripeness, natural acidity and varietal expression has everyone a bit excited. The only downside has been the early frost in October, slightly effecting overall yields for the region.

Clare

David O’Leary – O’Leary Walker

This year’s vintage has mirrored conditions from the 2008 harvest, featuring a cool growing season followed by slightly warmer temperatures toward the end, particularly with three to four days surpassing 35 degrees. In the Clare Valley, cool nights have always been conducive to Riesling ripening, resulting in lovely fruit character and a perfect balance between lime and citrus notes, complemented by excellent natural acidity. Most vineyards have yielded average crops, however with extremely promising qualities. Fermentation for both the Watervale and Polish River wines is complete, yielding exciting results. Early assessments of red wines, especially the Shiraz from 98-year-old and 105-year-old vines, show exceptional character, concentration and balance. The Winery block Shiraz is deemed the best in 23 years, with plans for gentle oak ageing to enhance complexity and refine tannins. At the close of V24 at OWW, we are seeing early signs of exceptionally well-balanced and distinctive wines across the board.

Hunter Valley

Stuart Hordern – Brokenwood

2023 was a much drier year than the previous three across eastern Australia. Up to 31 December 2023 we received 663mm of rainfall, almost 100mm below our long-term average of 754mm. We had a very dry May through October, with only 127mm falling across these six months. This low rainfall and a warmer-than-average winter resulted in an early budburst, and irrigation was needed to get the vines off to a good start. A run of 11 days over 30˚C in mid-September with westerly winds impacted flowering, resulting in smaller bunch sizes, especially in Semillon.

We returned to average rainfall for November and December with some patchy hail events on the evening of 29 November, which impacted some sites in southern Pokolbin. Thankfully it was localised and our red vineyards were not impacted. Subsequent dry weather meant the damaged fruit mostly dried up, with little impact on quality. Despite several well-publicised storms that hit the Hunter Valley on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, we escaped relatively unscathed, which was a relief. Coming into the new year, fruit condition and canopy were very good, though tracking 14-21 days earlier than last year due to the lighter crop. Early January was incredibly hot and humid. We picked our first Chardonnay on 12 January, and while it was early, it was not one for the record books. Semillon followed shortly after that. While yields are low, the quality is excellent, and the flavour and chemistry are good. The last of our Semillon was picked by Australia Day. To give some context, we started on Chardonnay on 31 January in 2023.

Across the Hunter, yields across all varieties were lower than average. Semillon was particularly impacted, with the preceding three wet winters (2020, 21 and 22) and a historically dry 2023 winter all taking their toll on vine health and yield. We received a welcome run of warm, dry weather towards the second half of January, consequently our Shiraz came on quite quickly. This was due to a combination of this late January heat and smaller yields due to the dry winter. Considering the late heat, our Shiraz came in with good ripeness and natural chemistry. Despite the low yields across the valley, our reds held up better than the whites, yields on our better blocks actually being higher than in 2023. The last of our Hunter Shiraz was harvested on 5 February, the earliest I have finished harvest in the Hunter. The incredibly compact Hunter harvest made for a real baptism of fire for the vintage cru, with almost the entire harvest completed in an intense three-week period.

Langhorne Creek

Paul Hotker – Bleasdale Vineyards

Early and late winter rainfall was above average (with a dry July) and a few riverside vineyards also received a small flood, giving the soil a good soak. September and October were very dry and a few growers suffered minor frost damage and crop losses. An early but windy and cool extended flowering period in October challenged berry set and uniformity. This was followed soon after by a particularly wet November, December and January. This was good for vines that had achieved berry set but sent many vines into a vegetative cycle with bunch shatter and further crop losses.

The mild summer was great for vine development and maintaining acidity, with a few warm periods in February pushing vines towards a focus on ripening fruit.  Generally, yields were moderate and below average due to the poor flowering period, despite the rainfall that followed flowering. The larger canopy growth from additional rainfall kept fruit out of the sun and reduced levels of sunburn whilst maintaining acidity and aromatic compounds… That is up until the Adelaide Cup weekend from the 8-11 March, when we experienced four hot days: 34.9, 40.4, 39.6 and 39.9° with above average night temperatures in the low 20s.

The February harvest of Verdelho started as forecast on 8 February, with Adelaide Hills whites following soon after. The Adelaide Hills crops being more affected by the poor flowering conditions, with high leaf-to-fruit ratios and low crops racing the ripening quickly, we had largely finished the Hills harvest before 1 March, when we commenced local reds; starting with some of our better Shiraz, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Harvest continued rapidly up until 8 March when we battened down to ride out the heat mentioned above. This period put vines, people and ferments under pressure and I spent the weekend nursing our refrigeration plant and ferments through; overextraction and pasteurisation of ferments from excess heat was my greatest concern but consistent monitoring, adaptation, overnight pressing and hard work maintained quality.

Crop losses of up to 15-25 percent were suffered as a result of the heat through reduction of berry weight but with some rapid work, we finalised the last of our harvest over the next 10 days completing with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec on 21 March. Vintage on a pin; short, sharp and (very) shiny. All vintages have their challenges and not all are predictable, I thought there was a risk of March heat as the vintage felt a bit like 2008 and 2015 in the lead-up. As we are finishing ferments and as per those years, I think wine quality will be excellent, and possibly sharing some similarities with 2015 and 2016, which I have been enjoying at home.   The standout varieties at this stage appear to be Shiraz, Grenache (and blends) and Cabernet (and blends!) also very good along with some excellent Malbec.  Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are probably the best from the Hills despite the low crops.

McLaren Vale

McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association

The growing season began in October and November with modest rainfall and a good mix of warm sunny days. December however saw considerable rainfall, with December and January’s combined rainfall approximately ten times more than the same time in 2022/23. In a complete turnaround, the end of summer into autumn was very dry, and McLaren Vale experienced 46 straight days without rain from 26 January, including a heatwave in February of four consecutive days at or above 37ºc. For some parts of the wine region the heatwave will be a defining factor of vintage 2024, but for others it will not. McLaren Vale has an extremely diverse landscape so climatic conditions influence each vineyard differently depending on factors such as the geology, soil and microclimates of individual vineyards as well as the grape variety that is planted.

The dry weather conditions and heat in February led to vintage compression with many of McLaren Vale’s wineries working at maximum capacity from late February right through to the end of March. After an intense period, there was some breathing room as the wineries waited for the later ripening varieties to reach optimal sugar and phenolic ripeness. Generally, the yields of most varieties in our region were below the long term average. White grape varieties such as Fiano and Viognier did well with the climatic conditions of vintage 2024 providing good natural acidity in these varieties. Climate appropriate varieties including Nero d’Avola delivered well this vintage with the late burst of heat in February enhancing the flavour profiles in these varieties.

Winemaker Alan Varney says, “I recall sitting at Sellicks in January watching yet another downpour with a sense of dread as to what may lie ahead for vintage. Luckily that was the last rain we would see and the weather turned it on for us. The winery is now full and ferments are all looking promising. Most exciting is a batch of Arinto. Grenache is also a standout with great depth and spice. I’m even looking forward to a day off soon!”

Margaret River

Amanda Whiteland – Margaret River Wine Association

Vintage in Margaret River was early, fast-paced and bodes well for some superb-quality wines. The vintage was also blessed with one of the most spectacular and abundant marri (Corymbia calophylla) flowering seasons, keeping the birds away from the vineyards. Howard Park group viticulturist Stephen Kirby explained that the cool, wet 2023 winter weather disappeared quickly and was replaced by a dry, warm spring. “Above-average temperatures and almost no rainfall led to an early budburst and perfect growing conditions for vines,” he says. “Canopy growth was good, and flowering occurred early and went through quickly. This led to good berry set in most varieties. The spring weather meant disease pressure was low, and very few reports of issues were seen in the vineyard. Consistent above-average temperatures led to early veraison in all varieties. In late December, colour could be seen in Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, which pointed to a very early vintage. January saw a continuation of the dry conditions, leading to moderate bunch size and lower-than-expected yield potential.”

A positive of the warm, dry conditions was no disease pressure across the region; 2024 was also a vintage with abundant and prolonged marri blossom, known as a ‘mast year’. This usually occurs every four years or so, as it takes the trees time to muster sufficient resources to produce another massive flowering. This also means there was little to no grape loss due to the native silvereye birds. The white grape harvest began in mid-January, four weeks earlier than usual and continued to ripen rapidly, making vintage compressed and fast-paced. As with all seasons, early attention to detail in the vineyard paid dividends. For irrigated vineyards, the dry growing season required early and frequent irrigation, increasing pressure on water supplies; however, early picking somewhat alleviated this.

Precision in harvest timing was crucial in this hot, fast-ripening season, as the optimal ripeness came and went quickly. Whites were generally picked over two weeks instead of the typical four weeks. Red varieties required careful consideration to ensure physiological maturity with vibrancy of fruit expression. The narrow windows of opportunity to harvest meant skilful scheduling of vineyard and winery teams, supported by harvesters and transport contractors, and long days of handpicking for backpackers and seasonal workers.

All varieties reached full maturity earlier than we are used to, and lower yields in some varieties and locations led to a concentration of aromas and flavours. This bodes well for some superb quality wines from 2024. Overall, early estimations of the region’s yields are approximately eight percent down on last year and two percent down on the previous five-year average. Andy Bretherton, head winemaker of Juniper and Higher Plane, says, “From a wine quality perspective, I always struggle with the idea of making definitive calls on vintage this early in the season; it is just too early to truly know, but I can say the potential in many parcels is very exciting. The whites have exceeded my expectations with their clarity, freshness, and surprisingly, their natural acidity – a true strength of ‘Margs’ even in warm years. Cabernet, I would say has been more challenging and required real rigour in vineyard and winery to get the best results, but the best sites show lovely perfume and varietal expression, and trademark fine tannin. There will be some special wines from this vintage.”